Binding Placement & Stance Setup

On the centre disc for each binding there are angle measurements. On most bindings, but not all, each notch represents three degrees, with numbers showing at 15 degree increments. The binding angles should be adjusted to suit riding style and to help learn new skills. For example, a duck stance can help switch riding, whereas forward angles will aid a rider’s ability to carve. Generally speaking, we shouldn’t have more than about 30 degrees between the feet (e.g. +21 on the front foot, -9 on the rear). More than 30 degrees between the feet can lead to serious knee problems in the long term.

Ideally, we want to place the bindings equal distance from the centre of the snowboard’s side-cut (this is not always in the centre of the snowboard’s length). Take a look at the inserts (the holes in which the screws go); the centre four holes in each insert will usually be sitting in this position. Note that Burton Snowboards make a few different versions of insert systems, with the EST channel and the 3-hole system.

To check the longitudinal placement of the bindings, place the snowboard upright against a wall but at 90 degrees so one edge of the snowboard’s nose and tail is touching the wall. Slide your fingers or a piece of paper along the side-cut, and spot where the waist is narrowest (i.e. where the gap is biggest). Now mark this point and place the bindings equal distance from this middle point, using the previously established stance width.

The binding’s centre discs usually have different holes in which to place the screws, helping to finely tune stances. Move the binding more towards either the toe or the heel edges allowing for a suitable amount of boot overhang or more performance to a specific edge.

Highbacks provide stability and response, particularly on the heel edge, and are crucial to the overall setup. Adjusted through a mechanism on the back, this is the amount of forward angle the highback creates. The greater the forward lean, the more our highback tilts forward pushing the ankles and knees into a flexed position and therefore a strong riding stance.

Forward lean gives quicker response when turning to the heel edge but it can reduce range of movement vertically and tire legs out quicker when used in excess. A lower degree of forward lean will allow a larger range of vertical movement and will be easier on the quadricep muscles.

This is the sideways position the highbacks can be rotated into in relation to the bindings and snowboard. More response can be created when turning on to the heels by rotating the highbacks in-line with the heel edge. Using the necessary adjustments, either the holes at the bottom corners of the highbacks or the sliding adjustment on the base plate, move the highback on the front binding until it sits in-line with the heel edge. It is not necessary to do this with the rear binding unless riding with particularly high stance angles.

Some bindings have risers or ramps that sit under the boots. These are designed to lift the boot up above the edges and help avoid “booting out”. Some bindings have adjustable risers allowing them to be fitted to the boot. If necessary, move them out so the curve on the sole of the boot sits flush in the base of the binding and on the risers themselves. Make sure there is no gap between the boots and the risers, and that they come just past the end of the risers.

The fit of a boot can also be compromised by poorly fitting straps. Every heel/ankle strap should have the capability to lengthen or shorten. Heel/ankle straps are shaped to fit across boots. The centre of the strap’s shape should be sitting in the middle of the boot when fully tightened. Toe straps should be sitting snug across the boot and may also need adjustment in a similar way.